One of my past patients who was at her wits end. Aged 37, she had a slew of unsightly dark brown patches all over her face. And they seemed to be getting more pronounced as the years ticked by. “I just look like I have a dirty face ALL the time – even with make-up on!” she wailed. The patient in question did have quite an extreme type of facial pigmentation known as melasma, which is characterised by brown patches on the upper lip, upper cheeks, forehead and chin.

As a Black skin expert, I remain deeply committed to promoting true, systemic change. It’s no longer enough for a brand to simply claim "40 shades." The question today is: Are those 40 shades equally available, equally nuanced, and equally advertised?

You’ll know it instantly – the slightly too-taut face, carpet thick, caterpillar-style eyebrows, cheek bones contoured to look sharper than Helvellyn and inflated, bee-stung lips. All of this is usually set against a nut-brown tan and dazzling white veneers. What am I talking about? The Instagram Face – that homogenised ideal of beauty that is being normalised across social media feeds turning a certain generation of women into an army of pouting female clones.